N Searchlight Assembly (Work in Progress)
Begin by removing one of the 3D printed signal heads from the base.
Carefully remove the support sprues from the back of the head. Be careful not to cut the base of the head with the mounting hole off.
This photo shows how the cleaned head should look. Use a sharp hobby knife or small drill bit to clean out the mounting hole if nessesary.
Find one fret of LED boards and your supply of magnet wire. Each LED board on the fret has four pads that go through the board (vias). The LED's are oriented so that looking at the front of the board you have:
Top Left: Green
Top Right: Anode (+)
Bottom Left: Blue
Bottom Right: Red
If you're unsure, the datasheet for the LED's is available here: http://www.rohm.com/web/global/datasheet/SMLP34RGB2W
If you flip the board over to the back (still keeping the rounded end of the signal heads up, here's the new orientation of the LED leads:
Top Left: Anode (+)
Top Right: Green
Bottom Left: Red
Bottom Right: Blue
You'll need to solder the bottom leads first, using two pieces of green magnet wire cut 6 inches or shorter. If you don't have as much green magnet wire, you can reverse the colors. To solder the wire, tin the tip (hopefully the really small one) of your soldering iron and touch it to the end of the magnet wire. The solderable insulation should burn off, leaving a tinned wire that you can solder to the pad. If you're having trouble, consider using a magnifier. All the wires should be routed towards the bottom of the signal head.
Next, solder wires to the top pads. The anode pad should use a different color wire than all the others. Once you're done, carefully cut the LED board off the fret and clean up the sides using a small file.
Glue the LED board to the back of the head using thin superglue on a toothpick. We used rubber bands to hold our forceps together with just enough pressure to hold them together for gluing. Set the assembly aside.
Find the etched brass sheet. Carefully cut out the target and a hood (the hat shaped pieces) by lightly scoring the connecting pieces until they are cut through. File or trim off any remaining nubs from the connecting pieces. There is a spare hood if needed.
Wrap the hood around a 1/16" inch rod to form it to the correct shape. We used the back end of a drill bit, since it was handy. if you are having trouble getting a smooth curve, try drilling a 5/64" hole near the edge of a piece of metal, then removing enough of the metal to form a open semicircle from the hole you drilled. You can use this with the 1/16" rod to press the metal into a consistent curve.
Using ACC glue, glue the hood to the target, being careful to center it around the hold in the target.
Set this assembly aside.
Print out this placement diagram without scaling it. (Link here?)
Make a mark where indicated with the arrow. (Need new photo for this step)
Using a rectangular file at an angle, file a notch about halfway through the tube.
Use the 1/32" drill bit to remove the flash from the hole, then use a hobby knife blade to open the hole up with a downward slant.
Carefully feed the wires from the head assembly through the hole and down the tube. If is does not go freely, open up the hole a bit more.
Using the 1/32" drill bit again, carefully drill out one of the mounting brackets, then remove it from the sprue. Clean up any remaining support sprues from the bracket.
Slide the bracket up from the opposite end of the tube from the hole. Stop it just below the hole.
Cut out the platform and railing etchings. Slide the railing on from the bottom of the tube, and follow it with the platform.
Glue or solder the platform and railing so they are directly over each other, and on the same side of the post as the hole. Refer to the template for spacing.
Glue or solder on the ladder. Reference the diagram for the correct angle and placement, as well as the correct length to trim it to.
Remove the large foundation piece from the parts sprue. Using a 1/32" drill bit, carefully drill out the hole to provide a snug fit for the tube.
We recommend starting from the bottom and drilling up to near the top, then carefully drilling down from the top using no pressure on the drill bit as shown in the photo.
Apply a bit of glue to the end of the pole and place the endcap on it.
Slide the foundation onto the pole so that the stepped level is even with the end of the ladder.
Prime and paint the signal tower silver, and the target black.
Use krystal-clear or another window/canopy glaze to make a lens by putting a small amount in the hole on the front of the signal
Drill a hole in your layout for the holding ring, then drop the signal into it. Under the layout, carefully solder the wires to the LED driver board or Arduino as described in the manuals.